Day 1

Climb from San Giacomo di Entracque up to the Praiet gully and reach the Soria Ellena Refuge (open in spring by reservation only) where it is advisable to stay overnight.

Day 2

Leave the refuge and go up the Maura gorge with steep switchbacks. Then proceed, again along a sequence of steep slopes, towards Forcella Roccati. Then move on from here to descend briefly, across the large basin below, before climbing the entire steep gully (up to 40°) of the Saint Robert Pass.

On reaching the pass, descend diagonally to the left (facing downhill) as far as less steep terrain after a drop in altitude of a few dozen metres: Once wearing skis, go up on a long diagonal and pass the south-western buttress of the French peak of Gelas. Then continue more directly along a beautiful valley which culminates at Cima Balcone.

Identify and climb (crampons and ice pick starting from the narrow passage at the base of the gully) on the left along the south-facing French gully. This leads - with slopes of up to 45° and about 250 metres of gain in altitude - to the fork between the two peaks of Gelas. Passing quickly over easy rocks or snow, reach the Italian peak of Gelas (3,143 m).

Descend along the outward route. Expert ski mountaineers can descend the French gully in good snow conditions. Otherwise, use crampons to return to the base and then skis.

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